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OUR RECOMMENDATION

 

As already discussed elsewhere, we believe that with the continued recession of the prominent r-shaped glacier beneath the crater wall, the incidence of rockfall that will affect the exposed section of the route at 5080 metres, will increase.

 

We also believe that opening the southern (right hand) side of the Stone Train now exposes climbers to an unacceptably high risk of falling, when considering that an alternative assault route may instead be pursued from Barafu Camp.

 

While the Western Breach affords a uniquely dramatic vantage over the Shira Plateau and offers the best views westwards of any route that is publicly accessible, we nonetheless judge that these benefits are outweighed by the route’s considerable risks and the many complications associated with evacuations from the Breach, and therefore advise climbers wanting to see the Western Breach and enjoy views over the Shira Plateau to instead incorporate a crater excursion into one of the other available routes on Kilimanjaro.

 

Prior to the increased rate of de-glaciation on the Western Breach and the resultant increased incidence of rockfall, climbers would often combine the Western Breach with the Lemosho or Machame Routes in order to gain access to the Crater, from where dramatic and fascinating excursions to the Reusch Ash Pit and Northern and Eastern Ice Fields can be launched. Climbers should however be aware that it is not necessary to assault via the Western Breach in order to spend a night in the Crater and that this option is easily and considerably more safely available on the following routes when assaulting via Barafu: Lemosho, Shira, Machame, Umbwe, and Team Kilimanjaro’s new Rongai variant.

 

While we feel unable to recommend the Western Breach as a safe ascent route to the summit it is recognised that the nature of adventurous expeditions to hostile wilderness environments is such that a number of climbers, despite familiarising themselves with the contents of this website,  will nonetheless continue to opt to attempt to summit Kilimanjaro via the Western Breach assault route. Where this choice is made, we would request that climbers ensure that all published material pertaining to the route be carefully considered and that the accident investigation report be read thoroughly.

 

 

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The new route requires climbers to traverse diagonally across the steep and exposed slope (above)